No, the difference is just that spots on the hood don’t tend to grow much, especially if they’ve been covered with touch up paint. The most common parts of a car to rust is anything on the underbody, and I’d say the most common body panels to rust are right near the fenders usually because that’s where rocks get kicked up, break through the paint, and when water sits in there it rusts. Super common, just a fact of life.

As one commenter said, triangles are good. They’re very good at handling loads. Other than that, the best way to learn how to design and woodwork better is to just get out and do it! You’ll learn more as you go.

The paint should act as the sealer as long as you touch it up if it ever gets knocked off again. Little rust spots on what I assume to be the hood or front of your car are really a non-issue, corrosion-wise. But that said, are these just small spots on body panels, or are they spots near wheel wells or something where water tends to collect?

Just note that if you 3D print something, if you use the wrong material, there’s a chance it may melt.

~$2500USD/ea, for anyone else as curious as me

Great explanation. Yes - I’ve done this before! Built up a system with a RAID array but then realized I wanted a different boot drive. Didn’t really want to wait for dual 15Tb arrays to rebuild - and luckily for me, I didn’t have to! Because the metadata is saved on the discs themselves. If I had to guess (I could be wrong though) - I believe ‘sudo mdadm —scan —examine’ should probably bring up some info about the discs, or something similar to that command.

Is it a hardware raid or a software raid? If it’s software (not sure abt hardware), the discs themselves should have the array’s metadata on it, and you can just use mdraid & restart the array.

I’d personally be super surprised if they were outsourcing their firmware engineering - but I do suppose it’s technically possible.

Ahh, yeah. Neither would I. I would expect my USB sticks to last longer than that, lol.

That aside - here’s a fun fact. We sell the NAND from scrapped SSDs that we no longer need for development to a third-party vendor that actually desolders it and uses it for flash drives. So… you never really know what kinda flash storage you get on your flash drives! (Or… we did do this, until the program recently got shuttered because NAND is so damn cheap now)

I do agree with the plastic brick part - but there is actually reasoning behind that second part - the read-only mode. That happens when the flash is down to a very low amount of life left (usually predetermined by the manufacturer). It is by design because the flash will degrade further if you continue to write to it, so by forcing it to read-only mode, users can still recover their data in a failing/aging SSD. Not to say it isn’t a huge pain in the ass when that happens though, lol

These failures don’t have to do with where they’re manufactured - it seems like this is some sort of firmware bug. NAND doesn’t really just choose to wipe itself at random. Actual NAND chip failures are few and far-between, so this is very likely much more than a hardware issue.

That said, I personally have done a lot of testing with WD-manufactured NAND, compared other companies’ NAND - and the WD NAND is pretty crap. I can’t really go into further details than that, though.

Source - I’m an SSD firmware engineer.

Windows on ARM is a steaming pile of garbage

To be fair. Google does own nest. So the nest hub is also a google product. But yes… different products from different entities - not a great comparison

Wowza. That’s terrible. Thank goodness he hasn’t sold out; I love hoverzoom. If only my freaking work’s IT wouldn’t’ve banned extensions 🙃