There are variations to the bowline that make them suitable for climbing. Scotts locked, EBSB, lees link, harry butlers Yosemite, and alan lees Yosemite.
I’d pick the harry butlers Yosemite bowline, and Id say it is objectively better than the figure eight. Its totally security, easier to untie after heavy load, just as easy to verify, similar line strength reduction as the figure 8, and the tail end points inside the eye as to not interfere with clipping the rope to climbing protection.
There are variations to the bowline that make them suitable for climbing. Scotts locked, EBSB, lees link, harry butlers Yosemite, and alan lees Yosemite.
I’d pick the harry butlers Yosemite bowline, and Id say it is objectively better than the figure eight. Its totally security, easier to untie after heavy load, just as easy to verify, similar line strength reduction as the figure 8, and the tail end points inside the eye as to not interfere with clipping the rope to climbing protection.