bluGill

That is what I do - but there are a number of reasons it isn’t a good answer. Electric is a lot cheaper, and much better for the environment (My city is powered 100% via wind). However if I have to sit around waiting for my car to charge so I can move it on demand instead of doing those things I’m there to do the whole isn’t acceptable.

My city is full of level 2 chargers, and I get nasty messages when I use them because when my car is finally charged I’m in the middle of something else (I have a PHEV that only does level 2 charging, and I need a charge to get back home on electric only on the rare case I go downtown) Even with level 3 though, the time is long enough that you will need something else to do for that half an hour and nobody can plan that close. Most cars with level 3 charging have enough range that most people won’t need to charge on a normal day, but when you do you will need something to do in the mean time and if that something else isn’t about the time of a charge there is a problem.

inconsiderate people may leave their car plugged in for longer than needed.

This is a wrong take. It needs to be normal to leave your car plugged into a charger.

Cars take too long to charge for us to consider it reasonable for someone to stand next to their car waiting while it charges (even worse - as I write this the temperature is -17C, but even when things are nice). We need to expect that people will be doing something else while charging and only come out sometime latter to move their car. If someone is at work they can’t leave work until lunch time. If someone is at the symphony/theater it is impolite to leave when the car is done charging as it disturbs everyone else.

Of course if your car just as enough range to get back home so you don’t need to charge for normal trips that is better. However when someone needs a charger it should be considered normal to stay there for 6 hours, there needs to be enough to handle that. (obviously people making a road trip will disconnect as soon as the car is charged so they can continue on, but if you make the trip to a distance city for an event you may need to charge during the event to get back home).

It has had AI since before AI became hype. They limit it to places where it is useful intead of claiming it does everything.

Panels need to be accesable I’m not sure what you mean by void, but it may not be an allowed location.

Consistency. If you are going to run a subpanel to each room I’d like sub panels, but a mix is not what you want as then nobody is ever sure where to find things. The worst would be a subpanel but some circuits run back to the main anyway - lights is the likely area to see this as those are often shared between several rooms.

If you add a subpanel make sure you can get at it easially to add more in the future. You never know what else you might want in the future. That you think a 30 amp break in the main panel is enough implies that you have a gas stove/oven - you might want to switch to electric in then future for various reasons. Thus make sure there is space for 6 more circuits (2 for the cooktop, 2 for the oven, and 2 for things nobody has thought of today) For the same reason you should get at least 75 amps to that subpanel - even though you will likely only use 30 at max you want that extra space for the future. (I’d go 100 - it doesn’t cost that much more and you can upgrade the main panel in the future.

I don’t recall NEC saying anything about how much a subpanel needs to feed with, other than “enough”. I haven’t checked the latest though. Still 30 amps doesn’t seem enough for a kitchen even if allowed - some day you will throw a party and that won’t be enough for all the things pluged in. NEC requires 2 different 20 amp circuits for counter top use, 15 amps is not allowed, and if I were you I’d consider putting in 3 just to be sure. I’d say less than 50 amps isn’t enough for your current uses (and I’d go for 100 on the assumption that the main service gets upgraded some year)

Honestly though, most people don’t use subpanels for a kitchen. It doesn’t save money and most decorating plans cannot work around a subpanel - this ends up being the big killer.

True, but as a general rule until you get to the F350 class or higher states don’t charge that extra tax.

The F350 is the smallest vehicle where they charge by weight. Unfortunately they don’t check for how much you use it, so for the 6 times a year I use mine I’m paying $.10/mile - while someone else who uses it for hauling as a job is paying $.01/mile.

And soon you are going down the rabbit hole of making everything. Homemade tortillas, raise the vegetables in your garden, buy land in the country so you can raise you own beef. Then you go the next level and are making a new universe from scratch…

Have fun, cooking is a fun hobby that gives you better food (often healthier tastier, and cheaper!).

I wish they had, but at least there is a standard, which is far more important.

I’ve seen houses like that too. I saw other houses not far away (build in 1885) where the 2x4’s matched modern dimensions. Still other houses I’ve seen the dimensions where something else. Anything since the standard the sizes are all the same.

This is about whatever was available where you happen to live at the time they built.

They are cut to within 1/8th inch at best, and 1/4 was more likely. I was in construction for a while and this is what we did. Wood is not suitable for higher tolerance work: humidity and temperature change dimensions significantly, if you want something more accurate you need to use metals.

Old framing was not 2x4. Some of it was, but everyone has their own size they sold as 2x4. You couldn’t mix and match.

You heard wrong. They use excuses like that, but truth is they can make the final size anything they want, for many years every different sawmill decided their own final size. You start by cutting wet wood to a size, you might or might not dry it, then you plane it down to an exact size. Some sawmills started by cutting to 2x4 and then planning different amounts off. Others cut bigger so when they planed it down they finished with 2x4. Everyone did something different and so if you bought a 2x4 you better pray that sawmill remains open for when you want to remodel and need more. Eventually enough people got sick of this and decided to make a standard, the current measurements are what was decided, it was arbitrary, but at least everyone follows the same standard so you can buy from different sawmills. Exactly 2x4 is also arbitrary.

Perfection requires x-rays or tearing the wall down.

a rule of thumb is the middle third is for pipes nd wires, the outside thirds are for screws. This doesn’t always hold (it isn’t physically possible in all cases), but tradesmen try for it.

Gfci or rewire.

If you put in a gfci I’d connec the ground to the metal box - wood is not a great ground but with the gfci doing safety purposes wood is enough for some things that want ground (that is a shield). If you can get a ground wire to enough places connected to enough different points it will fool most ground testers - remember that this is only useful if a gfci is providing safety and your goal is to fool the other reasons you want a ground.

Asbestos is normally in the texture under the paint, not the paint itself. (Not that it can’t be in paint but the texture is a different thing)

Not what I use most, but coco powder is very underrated in savory dishes. Just a little bit can add a lot to many dishes. (the ones I use most have been well covered)

A little bit can go a long way in most dishes. You get used to sweet though and soon you demand more and more.

You can never have too much thyme. \runs